Trees and Yards

Deep Water Saturation

Deep water saturation is important for new and transplanted trees, which have a reduced root system or may have shock from being moved. Deep watering keeps moisture concentrations far below the surface, which reduces shock and attracts roots downward deep into the soil.

Watering is considered "deep" when it is at a depth of at least 12 inches. Most of the root system of the tree is located within the top 2-4 feet of soil.

Water Bags

With new and transplanted trees, it is recommended that a water bag be applied directly over the root ball/mass.

The water bag is a slow drip release that ensures your tree gets an adequate supply of water over a longer period. The average water bag drains within 24 hours. This time may vary depending on the weather, tree type and soil conditions.

We encourage users to follow manufacturer's instructions. 

How Much to Water

Newly planted trees lose much of their root system during digging. Because of this, they are much less effective at taking up water, and so they require much more water than established trees.

While there is no standard watering amount that is suitable for all new trees, there are general watering guidelines that can be followed. One commonly used formula suggests 10 gallons of water per week, per 1 inch of diameter.

Trees do much better with direct watering than with a sprinkler. Most of the water applied will be lost due to run-off and/or evaporation. Further, light applications of water will force roots to the surface, leading to shallow rooting and poor root anchorage.

How Long is Deep Saturation Required?

It can take 1-3 years for a transplanted tree to re-establish its root system, provided that the tree hasn't suffered from transplant shock or harsh weather conditions. On average, proper establishment of a new tree can require 1 year for every 1 inch of trunk diameter.

Once a tree becomes established, it will require less watering demands than a newer tree.

Benefits of Mulching

Mulching has many benefits, including:

• Supporting the soil microorganisms that supply nutrients to the tree roots
• Acting as an insulator, protecting against both hot and harsh soil temperatures
• Helping to keep the roots moist by retaining water
• Preventing soil compaction
• Creating a buffer from lawn maintenance equipment damaging the tree
• reducing root competition from weeds and roots

Applying Mulch

When applying mulch to your tree, avoid mulching the actual trunk of the tree. When a volcano is shaped around the base of the tree it creates fungal concerns. Mulch holds in moisture, so the living bark at the base of the tree will start to decay if the mulch is in a big pile against the trunk.

To apply mulch:

1. Remove all grass and vegetation within a 2-foot diameter of the tree trunk
2. Spread the mulch in a circle around the tree, brushing mulch away from the base of the tree
3. A maximum layer of 6-inches for mulch is ideal. 4-inches is considered the minimum standard

Below is an illustration of proper mulching practices:

Where to Find Mulch

1. You can recycle your yard leaves as much. Mulch the leaves using your lawn mower, and then apply as normal. If your tree leaves have discoloured spots, it's best to rake and dispose of them with your yard waste as a proactive step to prevent the diseased spots from returning the following season.
2. You can purchase mulch from your local landscaping depot.
3. You can pick up recycled leaf mulch at the Cambridge and Waterloo Waste Management sites. For more information, see the Region of Waterloo's website.

Reasons for Pruning

A tree may need pruning for a variety of reasons:

• To remove diseased or storm-damaged branches
• To thin the crown, allowing new growth and better air circulation
• To reduce the height of the tree
• To remove obstructing lower branches
• To shape a tree

If branches are coming into close contact with electrical wires (within 3-4 meters), please contact Township staff. We will send a professional to assess and determine the necessary course of action.

Boulevard Trees

The Township will prune trees on Township property, including boulevard trees. If you have a boulevard tree that requires pruning, please let us know.

The Township hires contractors, who employ trained Arborists to prune and elevate Township owned trees on your street. 

Our clearance standards require that:

• The lowest branches must clear the public sidewalk (if present) by at least 2.5 meters)
• The lowest branch reaching over the roadway must have no less than 4.2 meters of clearance, measured to the curb line.

This work is necessary in order for:

• Pedestrians to walk safely
• Sidewalk snow clearing operations
• Street sweeping, winter plowing operations, garbage and recycling pickup and deliveries to be completed without risk to vehicles, equipment or trees
• To maintain adequate sight lines for street signage 

It is expected that privately owned trees that encroach into the public right of way meet the same standards. Usually, these trees are elevated at the same time at no cost to property owners. Trees that are not over the road but will present clearance or sight line issues in the near future may be pruned as well.

Pruning Young or Newly Planted Trees

A young or newly planted tree should only be pruned to remove broken or dead branches. Dead branches have no growth, and if a twig is snapped off, there's no visible green under the layer of bark.

After three years of growing, corrective pruning should be attempted as the tree establishes.

When to Prune

For most trees, the best time of year to prune your tree is early spring and late fall. If you have a Maple tree, it should be pruned in mid-summer, to limit the amount of sap that bleeds from the pruning cut. 

It is recommended for bee health that trees to come into bloom before they are pruned each year.

What to Prune

When pruning, you want to keep the tree's natural silhouette. Never remove more than 30% of the living tree. This does not include suckers and shoots, which should be removed.

Other things to keep in mind include:

• Pick a central leader and remove competing leader branches
• Remove branches growing inwards and upwards
• Remove crossing branches that are rubbing
• Remove suckers and shoots from the base, trunk and lateral branches
• Remove dying or dead branches
• Remove lower branches that may impede road visibility
• Remove branches with narrow crotch areas
• Take your time, step back and consider your choice of cuts before completing them

How to Prune

When pruning your tree, always cut along the branch collar. This lowers the risk of damaging the tree.

1. The first cut should be several inches away from the branch collar. Begin under the branch and cut halfway through the limb.
2. The second cut should be several inches away from the first cut, and is made to remove the branch.
3. The third cut should be a clean cut along the branch collar. This allows the tree to heal properly.

When working with larger branches, consider removing the branch in multiple stages to lessen the possibility of damage to the tree or injury.